What Metals Are Non Magnetic? The Complete Engineering Guide
Only three elements are magnetic at room temperature — iron, nickel, and cobalt. Everything else, from aluminum to titanium to 304 stainless, is non-magnetic. Here is the full chart, the crystal-structure reason behind it, and when it matters for your parts.

IsoCNC Engineering Team
CNC Machining & DFM Engineers · Updated · 14 min read

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Quick Answer
The non-magnetic metals are aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, titanium, magnesium, zinc, lead, silver, gold, and austenitic stainless steels (304, 316). The magnetic metals are carbon steel, cast iron, ferritic stainless (430, 409), martensitic stainless (416, 420), nickel, and cobalt. Magnetism comes from crystal structure, not from the word on the label: iron atoms in a body-centered cubic arrangement (ferrite and martensite) are ferromagnetic, while the face-centered cubic arrangement (austenite, aluminum, copper) is not. One trap: heavily cold-worked 304 stainless turns slightly magnetic at bent edges and machined surfaces, because deformation converts some austenite into magnetic martensite — this is normal and does not indicate a wrong alloy.
What Makes a Metal Magnetic? It Is the Crystal Structure
Magnetism in metals comes from unpaired electrons whose spins align. In most metals the alignment is random or vanishingly weak, so the metal ignores a magnet. But in three elements — iron, nickel, and cobalt — the atomic spacing lets neighboring electron spins lock together in regions called magnetic domains, producing ferromagnetism: strong attraction to a magnet and the ability to become a permanent magnet. Each has a Curie temperature above which thermal energy breaks the alignment: about 770 °C for iron, 358 °C for nickel, and 1,121 °C for cobalt.
Every other element on the periodic table is either paramagnetic (aluminum, titanium, magnesium — attracted so weakly that no instrument you own can feel it) or diamagnetic (copper, zinc, silver, gold — weakly repelled). For engineering purposes, both groups are simply ‘non-magnetic.’
The subtle part — and the reason stainless steel confuses everyone — is that the same atoms can be magnetic or non-magnetic depending on how they are stacked. Iron atoms in a body-centered cubic (BCC) arrangement, called ferrite, are ferromagnetic. Iron atoms in a face-centered cubic (FCC) arrangement, called austenite, are not. Carbon steel is almost all ferrite, so it is strongly magnetic. Add enough nickel to the steel — 304 stainless carries about 8–10.5% — and the structure flips to FCC austenite that stays stable at room temperature, and the magnetism switches off even though the metal is still roughly 70% iron. Martensite, the hardened body-centered tetragonal structure in grades like 416 and 420, is magnetic for the same reason ferrite is.
Magnetic vs Non-Magnetic Metals: The Complete Chart
This chart covers the metals and alloys you are most likely to machine, fabricate, or buy. ‘Magnetic’ here means a noticeable attraction to an ordinary neodymium magnet — the practical shop-floor definition. For the wider context of how these metals behave under the cutter, see our CNC machining materials guide.
| Metal or Alloy | Magnetic? | Why (Structure) | Common Grades and Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Carbon and alloy steel | Yes — strongly | Ferritic (BCC iron) | 1018, 1045, 4140; shafts, brackets, fixtures |
| Cast iron | Yes — strongly | Ferrite/pearlite matrix | Gray and ductile iron; bases, housings, manifolds |
| Ferritic stainless | Yes — strongly | BCC ferrite, no nickel to stabilize austenite | 430, 409; trim, appliance panels, exhausts |
| Martensitic stainless | Yes — strongly | BCT martensite after hardening | 416, 420, 17-4 PH; valves, shafts, cutlery |
| Nickel and cobalt alloys | Yes (varies) | Pure Ni and Co are ferromagnetic | Pure nickel, Stellite; magnets, wear parts |
| Aluminum | No | FCC, paramagnetic — no attraction | 6061, 7075, 5052; enclosures, aerospace parts |
| Copper | No | Diamagnetic — very weakly repelled | C110; busbars, electrodes, heat exchangers |
| Brass and bronze | No | Copper-base, non-ferromagnetic | C360 brass, C932 bronze; fittings, bearings |
| Titanium | No | HCP, paramagnetic — no attraction | Grade 2, Grade 5; implants, aerospace, MRI rooms |
| Austenitic stainless | No (see note) | FCC austenite; weak after cold work | 304, 316; food, medical, marine hardware |
| Magnesium | No | HCP, paramagnetic | AZ31, AZ91; lightweight housings |
| Zinc and zinc die-cast | No | HCP, diamagnetic | Zamak alloys; die-cast housings, hardware |
Two entries deserve a second look. Nickel and cobalt are magnetic as pure elements, yet many of their engineering alloys are not: Monel 400 (nickel-copper) is essentially non-magnetic, and the nickel in 304 stainless is exactly what kills the magnetism. Alloying rearranges the crystal structure, and the structure — not the ingredient list — decides. Austenitic stainless carries an asterisk because of the cold-work effect covered in the next section.
Why Some Stainless Steel Is Magnetic and Some Is Not
‘Stainless steel’ is a family of over a hundred alloys, and the magnet question splits cleanly along crystal-structure lines. The details of each family — corrosion behavior, strength, machinability — are covered in our stainless steel material guide; here is the magnetic summary.
| Family | Crystal Structure | Magnetic? | Typical Grades |
|---|---|---|---|
| Austenitic | FCC (face-centered cubic) | No in the annealed state; weak after heavy cold work | 303, 304, 316, 316L |
| Ferritic | BCC (body-centered cubic) | Yes — strongly, even fully annealed | 409, 430, 439 |
| Martensitic | BCT (body-centered tetragonal) | Yes — strongly, hardenable by heat treatment | 410, 416, 420, 440C |
| Duplex | ~50% austenite + ~50% ferrite | Yes — the ferrite half is ferromagnetic | 2205, 2507 |
| Precipitation-hardening | Martensitic matrix | Yes | 17-4 PH, 15-5 PH |

The surprise for most buyers is that 304 and 316 — the two most common stainless grades on Earth — are the non-magnetic ones, while the cheaper 430 grade on your refrigerator door is magnetic. A magnet is therefore useless as a quality test: some of the best stainless ignores it, and some of the cheapest grabs it. If you need to tell grades apart, use our 304 vs 316 stainless comparison or request a material certificate and XRF verification from your supplier.
Why 304 Stainless Turns Slightly Magnetic After Cold Working
Fully annealed 304 has a relative magnetic permeability of about 1.002–1.005 — for comparison, air is 1.0 and mild steel is at least 200 — so it is non-magnetic by any practical measure. But 304’s austenite is only marginally stable. When the metal is cold worked — bent, drawn, stamped, cold headed, thread rolled, or machined aggressively — the deformation converts patches of FCC austenite into magnetic martensite. The result is a part that grabs a magnet weakly at exactly the spots that saw the most deformation: sheared edges, tight bend radii, stamped features, fastener heads, and thread flanks.
Composition controls how dramatic the effect is. Nickel stabilizes austenite, so higher-nickel grades resist the transformation: heavily cold-worked 316 (more nickel, plus molybdenum) barely changes — permeability around 1.007 even after severe cold reduction — and highly alloyed austenitics generally stay below 1.02, while leaner 304 can rise enough to pick up paper clips. Welds and castings are a separate case: austenitic weld metal deliberately contains a few percent of ferrite to prevent hot cracking, and castings carry a few percent as well, so a weld bead or a cast fitting may attract a magnet even though the wrought base metal does not.
None of this is a defect. Cold-work magnetism does not hurt corrosion resistance, strength, or cleanliness — it actually marks where the metal got stronger from work hardening. If an application genuinely requires zero magnetism (electron-beam equipment, sensitive magnetometers, some MRI-adjacent hardware), the fix is a solution anneal — heat to roughly 1,040–1,120 °C and quench — which dissolves the martensite back into austenite. Note that the anneal also removes the work-hardened strength, so the decision is a real engineering trade-off, not a cosmetic one.
Where Magnetism Actually Matters in Engineering
For most machined parts magnetism is irrelevant. In four situations it drives the material decision outright.
Sensors and automation. Inductive proximity sensors detect any metal but reach roughly twice the distance on ferromagnetic targets; magnetic reed switches and Hall-effect sensors need a ferromagnetic target or a mounted magnet to work at all. If a machine builder specifies a steel target plate, substituting aluminum or 304 stainless will silently break the sensing distance. The flip side: fixturing and guards near sensors often must be non-magnetic to avoid false triggers, which is why so much automation hardware is aluminum.
MRI and medical imaging. An MRI scanner’s field — commonly 1.5 or 3 tesla, always on — turns a loose ferromagnetic object into a projectile. Anything entering the room, from tools and brackets to furniture and patient implants, must be non-magnetic: titanium, 316L stainless, aluminum, brass, or plastics. This is one reason titanium dominates implantable devices, alongside its biocompatibility.
Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC). Enclosure material decides how a product handles interference. Mild steel shields low-frequency magnetic fields (that is why transformer cans and motor housings are steel), while aluminum and copper excel at shielding high-frequency electric fields through eddy-current effects. Choosing the wrong metal for an enclosure can mean failing an EMC emissions test that a different alloy would pass.
Magnetic handling and workholding. Magnetism is also a feature: magnetic chucks hold steel parts, magnetic bases hold dial indicators, and magnetic conveyors move ferrous scrap. None of these work on aluminum, brass, titanium, or austenitic stainless — non-magnetic parts need vacuum fixtures, soft jaws, or dedicated workholding instead.
How to Tell Magnetic and Non-Magnetic Metals Apart
The magnet test is the fastest material check in any shop, and it works if you respect its limits. Use a strong neodymium magnet on a clean, flat, undeformed area. A hard pull means carbon steel, cast iron, or a ferritic/martensitic stainless. No response means aluminum, copper, brass, titanium, magnesium, zinc, or annealed 304/316. A faint tug confined to edges, threads, or formed areas means cold-worked austenitic stainless — expected, not suspicious.
Know the three traps. First, plating: a ‘brass’ fitting that sticks is steel with brass plating — file an inconspicuous spot to see the base metal. Second, welds and castings: a magnetic weld bead on a non-magnetic 304 fabrication is normal weld ferrite, not a wrong filler. Third, the magnet cannot distinguish within groups: it will never tell 304 from 316, or 6061 from 7075 aluminum. For alloy identity you need an XRF analyzer or the material certificate. When the part is mission-critical, skip field tests entirely — specify the grade on the drawing and require mill certs with the order, which is how we run every lot at IsoCNC.
FAQ: Magnetic and Non-Magnetic Metals
What metals are non magnetic?
The non-magnetic metals used in engineering are aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, titanium, magnesium, zinc, lead, silver, gold, and austenitic stainless steels such as 304 and 316. None of them are attracted to a magnet in any practical sense — they are paramagnetic or diamagnetic, which means their response to a magnetic field is thousands of times weaker than iron. Only three elements are ferromagnetic at room temperature: iron, nickel, and cobalt. Any metal or alloy that is not built primarily on those three will not stick to a magnet.
Is stainless steel magnetic or non-magnetic?
It depends entirely on the family. Austenitic grades — 304, 316, 303 — are non-magnetic in the annealed condition because their atoms sit in a face-centered cubic structure. Ferritic grades like 430 and 409 and martensitic grades like 416 and 420 are strongly magnetic because their structure is body-centered. Duplex grades such as 2205 are magnetic because roughly half their structure is ferrite. So ‘is stainless steel magnetic?’ has no single answer: check the grade, not the word ‘stainless.’ A magnet sticking tells you little about quality or corrosion resistance.
Why does 304 stainless steel become magnetic after machining or bending?
Cold working — bending, drawing, stamping, thread rolling, or aggressive machining — transforms part of 304’s austenite into martensite, and martensite is magnetic. The effect shows up most at heavily deformed spots: sheared edges, formed corners, cold-headed fastener heads, and thread roots. Annealed 304 measures a relative permeability of only about 1.002–1.005, but heavy cold reduction can raise it enough to hold a paper clip. The magnetism is not a defect and says nothing about corrosion resistance. Solution annealing followed by quenching converts the martensite back to non-magnetic austenite if the application requires it.
Is aluminum magnetic?
No. Aluminum is paramagnetic — technically it responds to a magnetic field, but the response is so weak that no shop magnet will ever detect it. Aluminum parts will not stick to a magnet, cannot be permanently magnetized, and do not distort magnetic fields. That is why aluminum is the default material for electronics enclosures, MRI-room equipment, and instrument housings where magnetic neutrality matters. One nuance: because aluminum is an excellent conductor, a moving magnet induces eddy currents in it — the principle behind magnetic brakes and sorting machines — but that is an electrical effect, not magnetism in the metal.
Is brass magnetic? What about copper and bronze?
No. Brass is a copper-zinc alloy and both parent metals are non-magnetic, so every common brass — including the free-machining C360 — ignores a magnet. Copper itself is diamagnetic, meaning it is actually repelled by a magnetic field, though far too weakly to feel. Bronze (copper-tin) behaves the same way. If a ‘brass’ or ‘copper’ part sticks to a magnet, it is almost certainly a steel part with brass or copper plating — a common construction for low-cost fittings, hinges, and fasteners. Scratch or file an inconspicuous spot to check what is underneath.
How can I test if a metal is magnetic?
Use a strong neodymium magnet, not a weak souvenir magnet. Touch it to a clean, flat area of the part. Strong, immediate pull means a ferromagnetic metal: carbon steel, cast iron, or a ferritic/martensitic stainless. No pull at all means aluminum, copper, brass, titanium, magnesium, zinc, or annealed austenitic stainless. A faint tug only at edges or formed areas points to cold-worked 304/316. Test away from edges and welds, since cold work and weld ferrite create localized magnetism. For a definitive answer, a permeability meter or an XRF alloy analyzer removes all doubt.
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Need Non-Magnetic Parts Machined to Spec?
IsoCNC machines aluminum, brass, titanium, and 304/316 stainless parts for sensor, medical, and electronics applications — with full material certificates, XRF verification on request, and inspection reports on every lot. An engineer reviews every RFQ, typically within 1–2 business days.